Susan Tabak home Under the painted, and skylit, dome of the Paris stock exchange We always look forward to the Lanvin show–it's typically a high point of any men's week in Paris. The team of creative director Alber Elbaz and menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver seems to have established a...

Susan Tabak home This season, Kris Van Assche showed his Spring 2012 men's collection in, of all places, the Paris Salvation Army's Palais de la Femme, an early-20th century building with the calm but slightly-intimidating aura of an all-girls' boarding school. The invitation also invoked...

Susan Tabak home The first look down the runway at Paul Smith (short trench, color-blocked sweater, slim pants) made it clear–this would be a presentation of real clothes, not big fashion statements. That's what men expect from the brand, and this time around they surely won't be...

Susan Tabak home Bernhard Willhelm always puts on a show, in every sense of the word, and this season was no exception. As guests filed into the Mercedes-Benz dealership on the Champs-Éysées, rumor was rife that the défilé would include male porn star François Sagat, and a female body...

Susan Tabak home It's not every designer who can dress men in voluminous culottes and still have them look masculine–let alone rugged–but that's just what Yohji Yamamoto accomplished this week in Paris. Perhaps it had something to do with the casting: there were men of all shapes, sizes and...

Susan Tabak home Susan on her way into the GUSTAVOLINS presentation GUSTAVOLINS is a label created by Gustavo Lins–a Brazilian-born (but now very Parisian) architect-turned-designer. We'd heard good things about the men's collection, which is only one season old, and we made it a point...

Susan Tabak home Damir Doma has a world of influence behind him–he was born in Croatia, raised in Germany, worked in Belgium and moved to Paris–and it shows up in collections that offer something beyond conventional menswear. And while other designers flirt this season with images of men in...

Susan Tabak home JUUN.J isn't afraid to make big fashion statements, and his Spring 2012 men's collection, titled Deviated, took menswear to some of its outer limits. All of the super-skinny models (a trend seen on many of the runways this season) wore cheekbone-sculpting makeup and heavy...

For years, fashionable men have sworn by an aggressively skinny silhouette, but Spring 2012 collections are pushing for a change. Those most likely to succeed are the ones that keep the overall line slim, but pump up the volume. At Issey Miyake, jackets were trim but not body-hugging–and...

Susan Tabak home Despite all the turmoil chezJohn Galliano, the men's show still went on as planned, overseen by longtime member of the design team (newly-annointed creative director), Bill Gaytten. Against a pinball wizard's spiraling backdrop and a stereophonic soundtrack mashing up...

 

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